Ross-on-Wye: The Historic Market Town That's a Perfect Weekend Escape from Birmingham
Nestled where Herefordshire meets Gloucestershire on the Welsh border, Ross-on-Wye stands as a charming market town that's surprisingly just under an hour from Birmingham by train. This picturesque destination, often overlooked by modern travelers, holds the distinguished title of being the birthplace of British tourism, serving as the holiday hotspot of the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
The Birthplace of British Tourism
With a population of approximately 11,000 residents according to the 2021 census, Ross-on-Wye maintains its old-world allure despite its historical significance. The town's streets are lined with striking black-and-white timber-framed buildings and charming independent shops that invite visitors to browse away an afternoon. The town's unique position on the northern edge of the Forest of Dean, less than 10 miles from the Welsh border and six miles from Gloucestershire, adds to its distinctive character.
It was here that Reverend William Gilpin penned Britain's inaugural travel guide in 1782, titled Observations on the River Wye. This pioneering work documented his boat journey from Ross-on-Wye to Chepstow and established the concept of the "picturesque" journey. His captivating descriptions made replicating his voyage the height of fashion, especially during the Napoleonic Wars when European travel was restricted.
Exploring the Town's Culinary Delights
During a recent visit, exploration began with a search for Truffles Deli on High Street, recommended by Visit Herefordshire. Finding it closed on Sundays, the alternative discovery was Maggie's Place just a few doors down. This warm and welcoming café, open for only a few months, features exposed beams and brickwork with a scent of incense filling the air. The establishment proudly sources ingredients locally, with ham from a nearby deli and bread produced in the vicinity.
The café's commitment to quality extends to their coffee service, where the owner serves a Café Au Lait described as rich, smooth, and bitter without being harsh. The lunch offerings provide excellent value, with garlic spread in ham sandwiches creating a silky and creamy contrast that delights the palate.
Historic Accommodations and Scenic Views
The Royal Hotel, where travelers would have lodged 200 years ago before embarking on their boat journeys, stands imposingly above the town. Constructed on the remains of a 13th-century Bishop's Palace, this Greene King hotel offers spectacular views of the River Wye that leave visitors speechless. Just around the corner lies The Prospect, created around 1700 by John Kyrle, known as the 'Man of Ross.' From this vantage point in the pleasure garden behind St Mary's Church, visitors can observe the famous horseshoe bend in the Wye and views extending as far west as the Black Mountains.
The Hope and Anchor Experience
For overnight stays, the Hope and Anchor provides beautiful ensuite rooms with eye-catching chandelier-style lighting and lovely river views. The dining experience at this riverside establishment exceeds expectations, beginning with exceptional wine selections like the Vina Cerrada Rioja that offers deep, intense flavors resonating with plum and dark fruits with a woody finish.
The culinary highlights include whipped camembert brulee presented on a bed of fig chutney with toasted sourdough, garnished with hazelnut and apple. The garlic-and-thyme-roasted supreme of chicken arrives as a substantial plate featuring garlic and rosemary roast potatoes, braised red cabbage puree, glazed parsnips, roasted heritage carrots, herb and apricot stuffing, seasonal greens, Yorkshire pudding, and red wine gravy. The roast potatoes achieve perfection with crispy exteriors and fluffy, piping hot interiors.
Following in Historic Footsteps
The Museum Without Walls App enhances the visitor experience by using augmented reality to overlay historical images on current locations. When aimed at the sign outside the Hope and Anchor, the app reveals boats from centuries past preparing to embark on journeys down the Wye toward Chepstow. Despite recent downpours causing the River Wye to rise and flood paths, determined visitors can still trace Gilpin's route, with Wilton Bridge spanning the river approximately half a mile distant.
Practical Information for Visitors
The Hope and Anchor offers lunch and dinner options alongside overnight stays, while The Pavilion restaurant and bar next door provides breakfast and cocktail masterclasses. The Hut on the river's edge serves cakes, hot drinks, and ice creams for those on the go. A one-night stay at the Hope and Anchor costs from £90 based on two sharing on a Bed and Breakfast basis.
Maggie's Place at 24 High Street operates from 10:30am to 4:30pm Monday through Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, with Sunday hours from 12:30pm to 4:30pm. The Royal Hotel remains open year-round with breakfast served between 7am and 11am Monday through Friday and 8am to 12pm on weekends, offering evening dining until 9pm in a dog-friendly environment.
This charming market town continues to captivate visitors with its historic significance, scenic beauty, and warm hospitality, making it an ideal weekend escape from Birmingham that transports travelers back to the origins of British tourism while providing modern comforts and culinary excellence.
